After MenDetails had their measurements taken and first fitting for a bespoke double-breasted suit from Assisi Bespoke House by Kim Min Soo at The Decorum, it is now time to review the finished suit. This will give you an idea of what to expect if you decide to order a suit from Assisi Bespoke House at The Decorum Bangkok
Assisi Bespoke Double Breasted Suit from The Decorum.
Our initial fitting experience with Assisi Bespoke House suits, also “First Fitting” at The Decorum, was exceptionally smooth. During the initial fitting, very few significant issues were identified by Kim Min Soo, who informed us there was no need for a Second Fitting. We can now eagerly await the arrival of your completed suit.
Upon our first glimpse of these meticulously crafted suits, we were genuinely impressed by the immaculate workmanship in his bespoke style. The stitches take the unmistakable hallmark of hand-punching, a definitive characteristic of bespoke craftsmanship, where the tailor works solo, handling every step from fabric measurement, cutting, and hand-sewing process, from beginning to completion. This represents the allure of the true bespoke work, a skill mastered by only a few worldwide. It is the essence that we should exclusively expect from a suit worthy of the coveted title ‘Bespoke’.
The Advantages of Assisi Bespoke
We tried our chosen double-breasted jacket in a 6×2 button pattern, with the option to switch to a 6×1 with a large peak lapel collar, a style exclusively reserved by Assisi for this program. It boasts a higher collar tip that appears noticeably more extensive than the off-the-rack version.
However, as we put on the suit, we noticed that the sleeve head and armholes felt slightly tight. This tightness restricted our movement, which also concerns Mr. Kim Min Soo. He assured us he would make the necessary adjustments before delivering the final garment. This meticulous care is a rarity in the industry, as he does not look over any small points to ensuring that every detail aligns perfectly with his vision of excellence.
While editing options are often restricted within a Made to Measure program, and certain elements cannot be modified, it becomes the big advantage of bespoke suits, where the dedicated suit tailor is committed to making adjustments at every stage, ensuring that the final result meets and exceeds the expectations of both the craftsman and the wearer.
The Final Finishing
After Mr. Kim Min Soo made the final adjustments to the suit, it took approximately one month to complete, and MenDetails finally received the finished suit. The total production time amounted to eight months, with The Decorum Shop as the host, coordinating appointments and providing valuable guidance.
Assisi’s suits are clearly inspired by the Neapolitan style, evident in their lightweight construction. They employ a lightweight full canvas construction that does not have a sponge on the shoulders, prioritizing comfort. However, Assisi has a bit more extended shoulders compared to usual Neapolitan styles. The spalla camicia combining with extended shoulders, which provide a formal appearance, achieves the style that is effortlessly comfortable, all while upholding the essential formality expected of the suit.
The trousers were a perfect fit. The hips and thighs are not too wide, making them follow perfectly with the curve of the hips. Then, the trousers shape gradually tapers to a nice hem width at about 7.8 inches. Overall, the trousers are slightly wider than the Sartoria Raffaniello but a little narrower and more form-fitting than the Echizenya or Yeossal.
The fabric is the high twist wool from Standeven “Explorer” in navy blue with a Glen checkered pattern. Imparting a subtle effect that may appear as a plain color from a distance yet reveals a grid pattern upon closer look. The fabric is airy, lightweight feel, boasting exceptional wrinkle resistance and ease of care. In our opinion, the Standeven Explorer is one of the most comfortable option compared to similar fabrics from other brands.
One distinctive style is the large peak lapel, which extends almost to the top of the shoulder. The suit collar’s tip may appear beyond the shoulder line when viewed from behind angles. This is a unique detail that we’d like to mention. If a high-pointed peak lapel doesn’t align with your style preferences. MenDetails recommends consulting your choices with Mr. Kim Min Soo from the beginning, as he can certainly make adjustments to tailor it to your liking.
We highly esteem Mr. Kim Min Soo of Assisi Bespoke House for his unwavering commitment to precision ensuring that even the slightest imperfections are addressed. The craftsmanship, including the nearly flawless sewing work with 100% handmade tailoring. We then firmly believe that craftsmanship is really well worth the price. Those who interested in Assisi Bespoke House’s artistry can contact The Decorum Bangkok for further information and inquiries.
The MenDetails team has developed a growing appreciation for double-breasted suits. We are exploring the 6×1 Double Breasted Jacket version from Sartoria Raffaniello, to which we will have an in-depth review upcoming. Additionally, we plan to compare both of them thoroughly, therefore, be sure to follow and stay tuned for more to come